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Your computer screen is the new magnifying mirror. Only, you can’t just tuck your monitor in a drawer. After two years (and counting) of facing our digital reflections, the effects are playing out in real life, starting with a spike—at least anecdotally, for now—in people seeking injectables for the first time to address imperfections.

“When it comes to making an aesthetic change to your face or body, I think it’s important to remember that our own personal perception sets our reality. As we change and mature, mentally and physically, so does our self-image, says Dr. Scott Allison – the Cosmetic Physician behind Brisbane’s Uber-popular Ascension Clinic.

The reality is, you’re not alone, and haven’t been for a while. The rate of interest in botulinum-toxin injections among people in Australia grew 57 percent from 2018 to 2022, according to Google Trends data. It’s true: Injectables are no longer the turf of Real Housewives and IG influencers.

But while going under the needle may be more common, it’s still a medical procedure—so it should be approached with the same careful consideration. From how to choose the right practitioner (note: they should definitely be a doctor) to when you should start (i.e., is preventive Botox actually a thing?), we spent some time with Dr. Scott Allison to get all the facts.

A post shared by Ascension Cosmetic Medicine (@ascensionclinic)

For starters, all injectables are not equal.

There are two categories of injectables: neuromodulators and fillers. Let’s start with neuromodulators, a.k.a. botulinum toxin, often referred to by the brand name Botox. These interfere with nerve communication, effectively relaxing the muscles, to soften lines and wrinkles created by repetitive muscle movement, such as lines between the brows caused by frowning, and crow’s-feet created by smiling.

While Botox isn’t the only neuromodulator out there, it’s the OG—in fact, it’s celebrating 23 years of TGA approval this year.

Fillers, meanwhile, do exactly what the name says. “Filler is a substance that fills a hollowing, unlike Botox, which is going into the muscle,” says Dr. Scott. While the exact substance in question can vary, the most common one is hyaluronic acid. “We use fillers for many different reasons, whether providing more structure for cheekbones, restoring fullness in the hollow areas under the eyes, or filling any sort of deep crevices or moderate-to-deep lines around the mouth,” he adds. It can be used to plump the lips and add volume to the face too.

There’s a wide variety of brands to choose from; some, like Juvéderm Voluma, have more viscosity and are best for lifting, while others, such as Volbella, tend to be more fluid and are better for smoothing smaller areas, like around the lips. But as with the neuromodulators, it’s up to your chosen expert to determine the optimal one for you.

“As medical professionals, we’re not allowed to talk to the public in terms of brand names]. But there certainly are different types of dermal filler brands, which will have their own manufacturing processes that give them unique physical properties. And then within each brand you’ve also got different types of filler. Depending on what we’re trying to achieve, we’ll determine what fill we use.”

Finding the right injector is probably the most important factor in getting results you love. These days, it seems as if everyone from your dentist to your neighborhood spa is offering injectables, and many “pros” are being trained either online or during weekend courses.

But that’s super risky: If your provider doesn’t have the proper training, you can end up with results you hate, like a frozen face—or, absolute worst-case scenario, blindness.

“There’s such a varied range of skill sets and experience levels within the industry. There are some really experienced nurses and doctors, and then there are relatively inexperienced ones,” says Dr. Scott.

So, where to start: “There are a couple of organisations that set certain standards for their members,” says Dr. Scott. “So if your doctor is either a member or a fellow of that college, like the team at Ascension, then you know that they have to work at a certain level.” A provider you already trust is a good place to start. But know that simply going to a top pro doesn’t guarantee you’ll get the look you want. Browsing before-and-after pics can help, but they can be edited. Better yet are referrals from friends and fam who have had Botox and were happy with the results.

A post shared by Ascension Cosmetic Medicine (@ascensionclinic)

The “right” time to start any of these treatments depends mostly on the individual. (Forget that “once you’re 30” rule for Botox.) “If there’s nothing to treat, then leave it alone,” says Dr. Scott. “Making an aesthetic change should be a personal choice that empowers the individual. Every person has different facial features that make them unique. Where possible, I encourage patients to enhance those, rather than hide them.”

Your provider will assess that by having you make faces so they can see how expressive you are, since that can determine whether you could benefit from neuromodulators. “If the lines on those areas are exaggerated with movement, that’s a good time to go for a treatment,” he says.

And no matter what, go slow at the start. Since you can’t always undo injectables, incremental tweaks make for the highest satisfaction—and prevent a big, not-so-subtle change that you might regret. “It’s always better to do a little bit, then bring the patient back two or three months later and see how they look, reassess, and come up with another plan based on [the first result],” says Dr. Scott. “It’s a transition, not a transformation.” Preach.

Temporary redness and swelling are super common and should subside. For filler in particular, bruising is a biggie, along with swelling and lumps, says Dr. Scott—the lumps being a clump of filler under the skin. While most go away on their own, any that don’t can be massaged out at a follow-up visit. (Just don’t DIY.)

You also have an optional rewind button with hyaluronic acid fillers thanks to hyaluronidase, an enzyme that can break down that acid, but that’s the only redo. If you got neuromodulators or biostimulatory fillers, they’re there until they dissolve on their own.

While most recovery is minor, getting injectables is a procedure and complications can happen.

“Botox actually started in ophthalmology – they started using it for strabismus (the turning inwards or outwards of the eye). They were using it and found that the patients who were treated were suddenly getting an improvement in the wrinkles on their forehead,” explains Dr Scott.

Botox is used for a whole host of medical issues, including migraines, neurogenic bladder, muscular dystrophy and sweating.

“Anti-sweating injections are a super effective treatment for excess sweating. And it can do a lot more than just improve the way you feel physically,” he adds “We all experience anxiety from time to time, and for some this presents in excessively sweaty hands or underarms (a condition known as hyperhidrosis). People who suffer from this condition can feel embarrassed and have an enormous amount of social anxiety at the thought of meeting someone new for fear of having to shake their hand. Often to the point that they avoid doing it all together. Treating this issue with anti-sweating injections can quite literally be life changing.”

“There definitely is a correlation. Botox affects the the sweat glands (hence why we use it for sweating), so you get a change in the composition of sweat on the face. And so that can sometimes make people’s skin appear shinier, as it’s a higher concentration of oil versus water. It can also shrink your pores as you’re not producing as much sweat,” explains Dr. Scott.

A fair questions new mums looking to feel fresh, many of the cosmetic procedures performed while breastfeeding are generally considered safe. It is important though, to have a discussion with your treating clinician if you are considering these treatments to ensure that the particular treatment is right for you. According to Dr. Scott, these general rules apply:

“The doses used in cosmetic procedures is very low compared to those used medically and carry a very low risk of systemic absorption. Additionally, the molecular size of the ingredients make them incredibly unlikely to be excreted in breast milk. No large-scale studies have been (or will be performed), however their use while breastfeeding in considered by most in the field to be safe based on current evidence. For mothers who remain concerned, I would recommend pumping and discarding breastmilk for the first 4 hours after treatment.”

“Dermal filler treatments – generally considered safe to have performed when you are breastfeeding, so long as you are physically well with no symptoms of mastitis or other infections.”

A post shared by Ascension Cosmetic Medicine (@ascensionclinic)

How soon do injectables start working?

Most fillers take effect right away. Neuromodulators’ magic happens in about 7 to 10 days.

Neuromodulators last from three to six months, while filler can stick around for a year or more, depending on how fast your body metabolises it. Exercise may be a factor, though current evidence is anecdotal. “

Neuromodulators are a quick pinch—and it’s easy to handle. Filler can be a little more gnarly, depending on pain tolerance. Plus, filler has built-in numbing agents, so that also helps.

Can you go for a run afterward?

Experts say: Skip it for at least 4 hours after Botox and at least 24 hours after filler.

Best for: Mature, sagging or dehydrated skin.

The first of its kind, and very recently approved by the TGA here in Australia, Profhilo uses a unique hyaluronic acid gel that, when injected into skin, stimulates the skin cell receptors to counteract skin laxity and improve and restore firmness. What this mean is it uses your skin’s own biology to create and maintain a youthful structure – stimulating your cells to increase collagen and elastin.

According to Dr. Scott, there’s already a wait-list at Ascension Clinic.

“Basically, you are injected across five points on the face, or the neck/body, and you get a little welt, almost. Then over about half -an-hour it actually spreads across the entire face or neck. So it’s great for things that we couldn’t traditionally treat (like necks as they are quite tricky),” he explains.

“They did studies where they looked at like the amount of collagen and elastin at baseline. And then they looked at what happens when you inject filler? Not much. But when injecting Profhilo it hugely increases the fatty deposits in the skin, and the collagen, and that’s what causes this amazing change.”

Nikolina is the web-obsessed Digital Editor at Men\'s and Women\'s Health, where she covers news, fitness, health, style, travel and pretty-much everything else. A lover of boxing, she was previously a Digital Editor at GQ and Vogue magazine and has contributed to Vogue Living and The Australian. She specialises in digital marketing, social media and branded and editorial content creation.

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